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Entries in Vietnam Wall (5)

Tuesday
Nov232010

The Fall of the Last Firebase

Last night a fire swept through one of the few structures on the National Mall not made of stone or metal. 

The kiosk remembering Vietnam servicemembers which sold unit insignia, patches, pins, and other memorabilia stood just between the Lincoln and Vietnam Memorials. It caught fire at around 11 pm Monday night and by the time DC Fire and EMS arrived on scene the structure was fully engulfed in flame. According to Fire Department spokesman Pete Piringer, the fire appears accidental and may have started in a space heater in the shelter.

The kiosk was manned by Vietnam Vets, specifically a group that have admittedly refused to go softly into that good night. While loosely defined, the group generally feels that not enough was done (or is being done) to account for servicemembers Missing in Action, specifically Prisoners of War they feel were not returned at the end of the War.

For many years, these Vets had a much greater presence on the Mall, but by the early 1990's numerous complaints had come in regarding the commercialization of the area. To finance the various booths, the vets had taken to selling t-shirts and other tourist items, often with nothing to do with the War or really any political cause. As their permit to be on the Mall was as a demonstration, many people, including many Vietnam Veterans, objected to the commercial nature of the kiosks. In a 1993 Washington Post article, Jan Scruggs, President of the Vietnam Veterans Memorial Fund, noted "It's like a flea market. It's a K mart on the Mall. It is everything that the memorial is not supposed to be."

In 1997, a Federal Appeals Court upheld a National Park Service ban on the sale of t-shirts. Deprived of their main money maker, most of the kiosks gradually disappeared, with one remaining until this morning.

I've walked by this booth no doubt hundreds of times, and from time to time I'd chat with the Veterans manning it. It was occupied 24 hours a day, and often the gentlemen inside were happy to have someone to talk to. While quite often I'd find that their views tended to the wild-eyed, I admired their lonely persistence in keeping alive a cause they sincerely believed in.

No word yet on whether the kiosk will be rebuilt, and even I am conflicted as to whether it should. But as my friend and fellow tour guide Robert Pohl put it, "Whatever you may have felt about their presence, this isn't how it should have ended." Indeed.

Tuesday
Nov092010

Veterans Day Observances 2010

photo by M.V. JantzenThere's perhaps no better place to celebrate Veterans's Day and to remember those who served than Washington, DC. We're chock full of Memorials to various wars, branches of service, units, military notables, and so on.

Tomorrow will be the ground breaking of a new memorial in the nation's capital: the Disabled Veterans' Disabled for Life Memorial. Actor Gary Sinise, who played a disabled veterans in Forest Gump and who is deeply involved in veteran's causes, will headline the ceremony, which starts at 10:30 tomorrow. The Memorial will be near the Botanic Gardens, on the corner of 2nd St and Washington Ave SW. Nearest Metro is Federal Center SW.

Click to read more ...

Tuesday
Oct192010

A Day in DC: Taking in the Memorials


View Memorials to White House in a larger map

Some time ago, I sketched out a sample itinerary for a day in DC focused on Capitol Hill that combined a bit of the National stuff that you’ve come to see with a little of the local color that humanizes the experience and makes your visit more memorable. So in that vein, let’s lay out another day, taking in the Memorials in the morning and a little of DC the rest of the day.

We’ll kick off at the Foggy Bottom Metro Stop on the Orange and Blue lines. We got a lot of walking to do this morning, and I don’t know about you, but I can’t do it without a cup of coffee. DC has some top notch coffee shops, but as we’re not near any of them now we’ll make do with the Starbucks at the GWU Hospital. We’re heading south on 23rd (downhill) towards the Lincoln Memorial. As we head down 23rd, you may want to swing by the Columbia Plaza shopping center (just past Virginia Ave) and pick up some water or other supplies. We’ll be walking a good chunk of the morning and pickings are scarce on the Mall.

Click to read more ...

Sunday
Oct032010

Weekly Washington: Jon Stewart Cometh (and he cleans up after himself)

The Daily Show With Jon Stewart Mon - Thurs 11p / 10c
Rally to Restore Sanity Location
www.thedailyshow.com
Daily Show Full Episodes Political Humor Rally to Restore Sanity

All of DC is excitedly awaiting the dueling Jon Stewart/Stephen Colbert Rallies. It looks like the Rally to Restore Sanity will be on the Mall between 3rd and 7th Sts (between the National Gallery of Art on the north and Air and Space and Museum of the American Indian on the south). And all of us who visit the Mall frequently owe Jon Stewart a big thank you for calling for donations to the Trust for the National Mall. I think this is the first time I've ever seen a rally (of any political bent) take the time to recognize that the "people's place" is not a communal dumping ground for the people's trash. (We Love DC)

While we wait for the restoration of sanity and fear, Transformers 3 kicks off filiming in DC next weekend. Michael Bay and company will blow some stuff up from October 11th through the 15th on the National Mall. I cought part of the filming in Chicago this summer and was truly disappointed at the lack of actual destruction. Lots of folks in tight t-shirts acting self important, crowds waiting in a festive-like mass, and then a weak little squib.  (DCist)

Philadelphia is set to resume Duck Boat tours in March following a fatal accident this year. Family members of the two victims urge them not to, citing unresolved safety concerns from a 2002 National Transportation Safety Board report. (CNN)

It's about time, but it's still going to be a pain in the rear. The Park Service is set to shut down access between the Lincoln Memorial and World War II Memorial later this month as they embark on a $31 million restroration project. Key among this: providing a water filtration system to improve the water quality of the Reflecting Pool, which contains more than the recommended levels of stank come August. (DCist)

The National Capitol Planning Commission examines the three security options for the Jefferson Memorial. All involve cutting down the famous cherry trees to some extent. Hey, maybe we could desiginate the trees as worthy of protection and create and even more giant wall surrounding them! (GGW)

New cracks were found in the Vietnam Veterans Memorial, but don't bother to try to find them yourself. It took a team of geophysicists to find this batch. As they continue to study the problem, the Vietnam Veterans Memorial fund will buy several more blank panels to have on hand if they ever need to be replaced.

Oh, and Cultural Toursim DC aparently has no standards when they ask for insiders to pick their top five sites.

Tuesday
Nov102009

Knocking out the Memorials - The Vietnam Wall

Traditionally, in Washington, DC, our nation has chosen to remember specific individuals, units, or branches of service in honoring those that have fought for our nation. That all changed in November of 1982, with the dedication of the Vietnam Veterans Memorial. It was the first Memorial in Washington with the stated purpose of honoring all those who fought in the war, with special emphasis on those who died or were missing.

The design is simple, and I'm sure the vast majority of reader have no more need of me to explain it than they do the Washington Monument. But like the Monument, the Wall, as it is often colloquially known, reveals a great deal of complexity under its seemingly simple exterior.

I'm sure most of us know the story of the architect of the Vietnam Wall, that of Maya Lin, a Yale undergraduate who beat out over 1,400 other nominations to get the chance to design the Memorial. In what would become the first of nearly countless controversies, Maya Lin's design was attacked not only for it's unconventional and minimalist design, but, sadly, for her Asian heritage. As a result, the original design was amended to include The Three Soldiers, a nearby statue which is said to represent all those who fought in the war. Perhaps in answer to the ugly racism associated with Maya Lin's selection, the statue very overtly includes a White, African-American, and Hispanic soldier, reflecting the diversity of all Americans who participated in the war.

The Three Soldiers is a fine sculpture, as is the nearby Vietnam Woman's Memorial. Visitors should spend a minute reflecting on both. But to me, they're add-ons to the main show, roughly akin to hanging Christmas ornaments on a Giant Redwood, so as to add beauty to it. The Wall itself is one of those Memorials that continues to stir emotion in me, no matter how many hundreds of times I've seen it, and it will be the focus of the rest of my discussion.

I can use many adjectives to describe the Wall, but simple should not be one of them. Minimalist, of course, and perhaps even stark, but in no way is it simple. Upon entering the Wall, you will either come in from the direction of the Washington Monument or the Lincoln Memorial, done deliberately to ground this work in the fabric of our Nation's Capital. Designed both to blend, and to stand out, the top of the Wall is at ground level, and you descend into it, watching the 58,261 names (as of last Memorial Day) rise above you.

I will leave you to your own thoughts when visiting here, but try to pick out a few of the details Maya Lin chose to highlight aspects of the War. Look for the small diamonds or crosses next to each name, signifying if the person in question was killed or missing, respectively. As we recover remains, many of the crosses have been filled in to from diamonds, but you can still see the original cross underneath. Additionally, as you look at each name that you will see your own reflection. This was not done by accident, and the intent is that you see yourself in this sea of names (hint: take pictures at an angle). And finally, look for the 1959 and 1974 dates at the center of the V. The names are in chronological order from the center, radiating outwards to the east, and metaphorically wrapping around again to complete itself back where they started, forming a circle. Which is, of course, fitting, as a circle is often considered a symbol of life continuing on, albeit broken in this case. Which, sadly enough, also makes sense.

If you have a name you wish to look up, you can do it before you come at TheWall-USA.com, a site set up by veterans that uses the official database of names. It is an excellent resource for more information about folks who are listed on the Wall, as well as general information about the site. You may as well look up names on books at the beginning of either side of the Wall.

A note on rubbings. I haven't heard anything official about continuing or discontinuing rubbing of names on the wall. Several Park Service reps and some of the veterans that volunteer at the Wall have told me informally that they've been having problems with rings and such causing scratches on the granite. So I have not been encouraging my groups to do rubbings unless they have a specific person in mind (family member, someone from their school, etc.). If you do wish to have a rubbing, I would also purchase a graphite pencil at an art store and bring an envelope for the paper so it doesn't smudge. Paper for rubbing is available at the kiosk near the Lincoln Memorial.

What I do encourage my school kids to do, on the rare occasion time permits, is to look up a specific name on the Wall. I think it helps to bring focus to the experience. With the explosion of smartphones with many kids, they can even look up the person in question before they even find the name. This might  not be obvious to a fifty five year old, who may have fought in Vietnam themselves, or protested against our involvement in it, or simply lost friends there, but the Vietnam War is becoming increasingly remote. I either have them look a name up at random, or give them one of the following, and we talk about it afterword:

Obviously, no one of these names is any more important than the others, but they serve to illustrate a little of the detail that many of the younger generation does not have.

A final note about the Vietnam Veterans Memorial. Perhaps fittingly, for what is arguably America's most controversial war, just about no element of the Memorial has been without some controversy, which continues to this day. It pains me to see it presented so often without acknowledment of that discussion (as the Park Service does on their website), as it is a war without easy answers. Some may take exception to how I interpret the Memorial, and other guides often view some of these elements in radically different ways than I. By all means, add your own interpretation in the comments below as you see fit. It's a difficult subject to tackle, especially since for many Americans it's not history, as it is for me.